Chronique 0708

THE UPPER GALILEE : ANOTHER GREAT MEDITERRANEAN TERROIR

LA HAUTE GALILÉE : UN AUTRE GRAND TERROIR MÉDITERRANÉEN

Alain CARBONNEAU

The visit of the Northern part of Israël (personally in May 2018), and particularly the upper Galilee, allows to discover high quality viticultural terroirs. Some similarities can be found with the Bekaa valley in Lebanon or the upper Languedoc for instance, due to the temperance of a basic mediterranean climate (less dryness, cooler nights) by the altitude : 300 – 600 m in the upper Languedoc, 600 – 900 m in the upper Galilee, 900 – 1200 m in the Bekaa valley, Figure 1 shows the Galilee region in the North-West part of Israël with its gradients of altitude and rivers going to the Tiberiade lake or the Galilee sea (altitude -212m below sea level). Notice in the North-East part the high basaltic plateau of the Golan and the rivers going also to the Tiberiade lake, and first of all the Jordan river.

Figure 1. Physical map of Israël and surrounding countries, with the historical names of the regions (internet source).

The upper Galilee and the Galilee have harmonious landscapes combining hills covered by forests (most of them have been planted) and fertile valleys where agricultural crops are mixed with horticultural crops (figures 2, 3, 4).

Figure 2. Typical Galilee landscape : in front sunflowers culture, after orchards, then hills with cereals and green oak forest, mount Carmel at the horizon (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Figure 3. Galilee plateau : in front luxurious agrume orchards, after hills covered with green oak and pine tree forest, dominated by a typical village (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Figure 4. Galilee lower plain (warmer) near Liali : in front vigorous vineyards, after banana culture under plastic green houses (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Crossing the agricultural zone of Galilee between Liali and Zichron Yaacov (Jacob’s souvenir), some well trained vineyards appear close to Zichron Yaacov (figure 5) where Carmel winery is located (figure 6). Notice that in Zichron Yaacov the existence of an interesting museum belonging to the Aaron Sohn family, which is famous for its military resistance features and also because one member was a specialist of wheat biology and origin.

Figure 5. Galilee between Liali and Zichron Yaacov : typical mediterranean landscape with nice vineyards in front trained to the Vertical Shoot Positioning with a foliage spreading on the top, some olive trees after, then hills showing the calcareous substrate (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Figure 6. Carmel winery and its equipment of stainless tanks in Zichron Yaacov, and hills of Galilee at the horizon (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Zichron Yaakov is a nice viticultural village where some small cellars complement the big Carmel winery (figure 7).

Figure 7. Small winery in Zichron Yaacov showing the biblic evocation of the huge bunch of Nehelescol also named ‘giant of Palestine’ (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Visiting the cellars of Carmel winery, it is interesting to observe modern equipments for wine processing and the old cellar for wine ageing in oak barrels (figure 8).

Figure 8. Barrel cellar of Carmel winery built underground in the lime stone, which is rather porous keeping a good air humidity (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Carmel winery is well known for its Cabernet-Sauvignon wines (nice body and structure), since its foundation by Edmund of Rothschild famous vine grower in the Medoc. But the winery produces now a wide range of wines such as a nice Marselan (black currant typicality), excellent Sauvignon (agrume typicality), a light agreable muscate sparkling (‘Asti’ type).

But the wine which needs more comments is the Syrah Mourvèdre 2014 – Upper Galilee. Here after are the descriptions given by Valerie Hecht, Carmel Wine & Culture Manager.

Figure 9 shows Merom Hagalil region where the terroir is located and Syrah and Mourvèdre express well their typicality. Deepened studies will be interesting to show the precise components of the typicality of this wine, which is anyway based on a full maturity combined with a good general balance ; some attention could be payed to aromas of the balsamic family.

Figure 9. Merom Hagalil region. Tiberiade lake appears at the horizon (internet source).

This region dominates the Tiberiade lake which is a marvellous site rich of history and emotion. Viticulture is part of our culture, and the landscape is speaking not only to our senses or our brain, but also to our heart. Figures 10, 11 and 12 give an idea of this ambience.

Figure 10. Northern coast of the Galilee sea or Tiberiade lake and its mediterranean landscape (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Figure 11. Belvedere near Capharnaüm (see figure 1) on the Northern coast of Tiberiade lake (credit Alain Carbonneau).

Figure 12. Arbel’s cliff on the Western side of Tiberiade lake sheltering useful caves for historical military purposes (credit Alain Carbonneau).

This example allows to feel something which is beyond the visible reality. I can only testify I have felt an impression of universal peace and harmony in this place (figure 13), and that the wine tasted afterwards was a modest illustration of that feeling.

Figure 13. Location of the Christian resurrection church where, according to the tradition, Jesus appears after resurrection to the disciples (credit Alain Carbonneau).

In conclusion and referring to Maucice Barrès – The inspired hill / La colline inspirée – we can think that « There are sites where the spirit is blowing / Il est des lieux où souffle l’esprit » …